Bag Your Jacket Lining
Prepare to sew lining to jacket
At this point you'll have an assembled lining and a complete jacket shell, which are ready to be joined completely by machine. But first, at each end of the jacket hem, pull out the basting stitches for the depth of the facings, so you can sew the lining's facing to the jacket's front.
|Make a back-facing pattern|
|If jacket pattern doesn't include back facing, which you need for the bagging process to work, align pattern pieces at shoulders. Trace back neck edge and extend front facing to around back.|
Now, take the time for this next important step: Compare the width of the lining at the hem to the width of the jacket. If they don't match exactly at the side seams and front edges, even them up by either letting out the lining if the lining is too small or taking it in if it's too large. This precaution eliminates the need to ease a lining that's too big (which causes the lining to ripple) or the opposite problem, to stretch a lining that's too small to fit the jacket (which causes the jacket hem to pucker). Repeat this step for the sleeves. If your lining and jacket widths are unequal, make sure to cut out the pattern for your next jacket accurately, and sew exactly on the stitching lines. The day I learned these lessons, the quality of my finished garment improved tremendously.
Join lining to jacket
Ready to sew nonstop? Rev up your machine, and sew the lining to the jacket front and neck edges in one continuous seam. Next, sew the jacket and lining bottom edges together. Here's the payoff for premeasuring the lining and jacket widths--sewing the hem is a breeze. Keeping right sides together, flip the jacket's basted hem open, but don't remove any basting stitches along the hem. Align the serged edge of the jacket's hem to the lining's serged hem, matching all of the lining's side seams to the jacket's corresponding side seams.
Pin the entire hemline, and then stitch the two together just inside the serged stitching. Take care not to stretch the pinned fabrics. That's it! Now turn the jacket and sew the hem in place.
Sleeve hems by machine
The last major step is to sew the sleeve lining hems to the jacket's sleeve hems. You'll be grateful here that you made the lining widths match those of the jacket. Shove the sleeve lining down the jacket's sleeve and unfold the hem down and out of the sleeve, then follow the steps shown in the photos above. As was done on the jacket hem, use a running stitch to securely tack the hem of the jacket's sleeve, remove the basting stitches, and repeat the procedure for the other sleeve.
All that remains is to hand-stitch the lining's side-seam opening closed. With a single thread that matches the lining color, hand-sew with a ladder stitch back and forth between the pressed seamline creases. The seam will be invisible and look like a regular machine-sewn seam.
Sew the sleeve hem to the lining
|With jacket and lining right side out, push sleeve lining down jacket sleeve. Then use one pin to secure jacket sleeve seam to corresponding lining seam.||Turn sleeves wrong side out through side seam opening.|
|Pull sleeves apart, so they're facing each other, joined by the one pin.||Remove pin, roll lining so wrong side is out and repin. Line up raw edges of jacket and lining sleeve hems, then stitch close to serged edges. Turn back through opening right side out, and press.|
Now sashay out the door in your newly lined jacket, knowing that you'd still be sewing it had you not used the bagging method. Might as well head to the fabric store for material to make the next one.
Sandra Millett sews nonstop in Trophy Club, Texas.
Photos except where noted: Laura White; drawings: Bob La Pointe