Create a Custom Dress Form
Many people have sewn their whole lives without a custom dress form and didn’t suffer a lick. But if you’re lucky enough to have one, it sure is nice. Just imagine making little style changes and fitting improvements on a 3-D version of yourself. Here’s why a dress form is great and how you can make one, with a little help.
Minor pattern adjustments become easy and obvious when you’re looking at the actual problem in fabric on “yourself.” Of course, custom-made forms are as useful as commercial versions for all the traditional dress-form functions—draping, visualizing, shaping collars, holding garments during sleeve insertion, hemming, and so on. But none of the fitting benefits are possible if the form you’re using doesn’t mirror, with reasonable accuracy, your body shape and posture.
The shape of your shoulders, the position and angle of your neck and the unique distribution of your body weight are issues far more important than questions of circumference, since most clothes hang from the shoulders or the waist, and don’t fit snugly. And this is precisely what a custom form provides: an accurate recreation of your posture and your shape, while keeping within an inch or so of your current circumference measurements.
The best feature of the do-it-yourself, duct tape form described here is that it’s so quick to make you can have a working form ready in less than two hours. And, you can accomplish this for about $15.
Also, check out four other dressform methods in our article, Clone Yourself A Fitting Assistant.
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Dress-form making is fun and fast, and will improve your fitting results like nothing else. |
Gear up
If you can, recruit two helpers: One cuts the tape into suitable strip sizes; the other applies the tape. Use old scissors, as the tape adhesive gums them up, and precut 4-inch to 6-inch strips and longer strips for the waist and crossing the heart. You will need two to three 60-yard rolls of 2-inch duct tape. The brand makes a difference, because some tape shrinks over time and change the size of your dress form. Ace Hardware house brand holds up well, as does Duck Tape.
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The form doesn't have to look like a tin man. Choose colorful duct tape for the last layer. |
Prepare the wrappee
Wear well-fitted undergarments. Tape a 2-inch strip cut from a file folder to your skin and over your underwear, down your center back from your hairline to below your hips. This protects you and your underwear when you cut off the dress form. Then put on a long T-shirt. This remains inside the form, so choose one you don’t mind sacrificing to the project. The T-shirt needn’t be too tight, because the tape pulls it in. A turtleneck T-shirt is ideal, or you can fill in around the neckline with plastic wrap before taping.
Posted on Oct 18th, 2010 in sewing, tools & supplies
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Comments (56)
overall a very funny experience. just make sure you stand naturally during the process or the form will be misshaped.
Posted: 8:36 pm on July 13th
Posted: 4:37 pm on July 12th
These articles on Threads were very helpful to me! I created my own dress form out of paper tape. I found it very successful- I'm sure it will aid my future fitting endeavours greatly!
I created my own tutorial that goes into a bit more detail about the process, and blogged about it here:
http://makingitwell.blogspot.co.nz/2012/03/i-made-my-own-dress-form.html
Please do visit, I'd love this to help someone! I'll do my best to answer any questions too :)
Good fitting luck everyone! :)
Posted: 2:40 am on March 18th
Posted: 10:53 am on December 13th
Posted: 7:49 pm on October 6th
PGM-Pro, Inc.
5041 Heintz St. Baldwin Park, CA 91706, U.S.A.
Tel. (626)338-1990; Fax. (626)338-1995
TOLL FREE : 1-888-818-1991
http://www.pgmdressform.com
Posted: 5:14 am on July 15th
Posted: 10:26 am on June 28th
Your method sounds really interesting! I've tried the duct tape method before too and was dissatisfied with the lumpiness and warping.
I was wondering how thick the knit fabric you used was, and if the fabric was thinner, do you think there would be any problem with the mache goo soaking through to the skin/undergarments? (Or should I just wear a layer of something underneath it?)
Also, as far as a second layer goes, do you think covering it with plaster (the plaster gauze strips) would help reinforce it enough? or would that make it too hard?
Posted: 7:53 am on December 3rd
i.e. love handles, bustline, shoulder caps, etc. Her method was remarkably more effective and included how to make a stand or use an old form, how to stuff and how to mark the final form. Well worth the money if you do much sewing for yourself.
Posted: 11:24 am on November 28th
Posted: 9:14 am on November 26th
Posted: 11:57 am on November 13th
Posted: 1:31 pm on November 1st
Posted: 10:37 am on October 29th
Posted: 10:33 am on October 29th
Right now the hollow form is on a hanger in my sewing room. Before I stuff it I'll slip it back on my daughter, mark some lines, and take some measurements. It seems to be fairly rigid and I don't think it's sagging or collapsing at all. Hopefully we'll finish it soon, then it's her turn to make a dress form for me.
Posted: 11:19 pm on October 25th
Yes, as doglove wrote, she contacted me through my temporary address. If you and any other NYC-area want to get together to try this, or something related, write me at:
pointpatou@yopmail.com
I'll get back to you.
PointPatou
Posted: 12:24 pm on October 25th
Please write if you'd still like to have a duct tape dress form get-together in NYC. And if there are any other NYC readers interested, please make contact with us. Thank you.
Posted: 10:01 am on October 25th
I'll also go to the "gatherings" section as another person suggested.
Posted: 5:24 pm on October 24th
I took a very form fitting knit tshirt, added some darts, took in the side seams and the sleeves a bit and added a turtle neck collar and a piece of knit to extend the length past my hips to about mid thigh. I just made is super skin tight. Nice thing about knit, even when skin tight, it was still extremely comfortable, no fainting here.
I put the modified tshirt on and painted paper mache goo (Flour, Elmer's Glue and water) on all over it, applying thoroughly and generously. I've been standing in front of my laptop at my kitchen counter, surfing all sorts of sewing sites while awaiting the drying process. In all, it took about 1.5 hours to dry, which flew by while on the internet, and it is rock hard and PERFECT!! An exact replica of myself.
Cut off in two halves, cut up at the sides so that there is a front and a back and taped back together. Now I'm just debating within myself if I want to apply another real paper mache layer to it or just leave it as is. I think a newsprint collage would be a neat treatment. :o) Ether way, I think it's much more accurate then the duct tape and it should last longer from what I know of paper mache.
Posted: 10:48 pm on October 22nd
Oooo I am beginning to get up my courage!
thanks all
Posted: 4:53 pm on October 22nd
I'm not an expert, but the other day I was reading an article on considerations for home sewers in buying dress forms. It said that a full-body form wasn't as necessary as one might think because most pants were in fact developed though the flat pattern method.
Posted: 1:09 pm on October 22nd
I'd be up for trying this, or at least helping. If nothing else, maybe someone could measure me so I could finally make a sloper.
BTW, here's another method that I've read about, which involves making a block using Saran Wrap. After carefully molding the wrap around the body and marking it up, one cuts it apart and lays it flat, drafting a block from that.
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/saran_wrap_pattern_making_method_1/
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/saran_wrap_pattern_making_method_2/
Listen, I've created a temporary email address. If you're interested in pursuing this, send me your contact information, at least an email address:
pointpatou@yopmail.com
Hope to hear from you. :-) Thanks a lot, Threads, for sparking this discussion!
Posted: 1:05 pm on October 22nd
Has anyone ever tried this?
Posted: 1:16 pm on October 21st
Posted: 6:16 am on October 21st
Posted: 12:37 am on October 21st
Posted: 12:34 am on October 21st
But having two people help is best, and if you do get the brown paper tape - use warm water to wet the back before sticking it on. And you'll be standing for 1-2 hours so have a high stool or ledge to be able to lean on, and wear the bra you would normaly wear. Though I have done forms on people while wearing a corset so they could then drape/fit the costume they would wear the corset under.
Posted: 9:09 pm on October 20th
Thanks so much.
Posted: 9:04 pm on October 19th
Posted: 1:12 pm on October 19th
Now in that time the waistline has required a little adjustment (lol) but for draping, the form still works perfectly well. I did fill it with the expanding styrofoam insulation about six years ago, sprayed into the neck opening directly from the can. This little bit of inside support has kept the form standing straight, without adding much weight to it over all. As several others described, I cut the neck opening foam overflow, off level with a knife and use the neck for holding a padded pin cushion. The brown tape method does not create the heat issues encountered with the duct tape, but is slightly slower going as you do need to wet the tape strips. Twenty-two years of regular use has really improved my fitting and draping techniques.
Posted: 10:20 am on October 19th
The last time I inquired about this there was a New York representative; I assumed it was a relative of the owner of the company.
Posted: 9:53 am on October 19th
I once asked the opinion of users on another forum, and they warned about getting a custom form if one's body will change. There's a price break if you buy a kit and I believe that they will have someone help if there's a group of at least four (I haven't looked at the site in some time).
I once asked the opinion of some professionals and they still recommended getting a Wolf dress form. Maybe they thought it would be more flexible.
http://www.mytwindressforms.com/
Posted: 9:47 am on October 19th
Posted: 9:38 am on October 19th
Posted: 9:24 am on October 19th
In any event, it was a success, and since I have a Best Form that I bought umpteen years ago, I mounted my double on that and secured it and stuffed it thoroughly. It was a RUDE awakening to really see 'me' and I have decided to keep a dress on it at all times!
As for the fitting aspects, it has helped tremendously. I don't actually pin anything to it, but rather work with the fabric and adjust and pin fit the garment. If I decided to pin directly to the dress form, in order to save my good 2" pins, I would buy some T pins from a local craft store, and use those since duct tape really does gunk up needles.
I've sewn for over 40 years, and never really realized that I fitted the garments for everyone else, but not myself. This really has made a great difference, and it really worth the effort to make......just make sure you go to the bathroom BEFORE you start your project! :o)
Posted: 8:35 am on October 19th
Posted: 5:26 am on October 19th
Posted: 3:01 am on October 19th
Posted: 1:47 am on October 19th
I've changed sizes (again) and am in need of a new form. I'd be interested in hearing from others who have used the spray foam, and what results have they had. One comment was that it deteriorated. I'd like to hear from others, and what type of spray they used. I understand there is a variety to chose from.
Posted: 12:11 am on October 19th
Posted: 11:39 pm on October 18th
Posted: 10:51 pm on October 18th
Posted: 9:51 pm on October 18th
Posted: 9:46 pm on October 18th
M
Posted: 9:04 pm on October 18th
Posted: 8:09 pm on October 18th
What you've said tracks with what I've been told for years, with the exception that I was told to get a Wolf.
Thanks for the feedback.
Posted: 7:38 pm on October 18th
Posted: 7:33 pm on October 18th
Thanks for the warning about feeling "smothered." I've read about that as well. Glad to hear you like the Wild Ginger software.
I want a dress form for fitting, and ultimately, draping.
Posted: 7:29 pm on October 18th
Thanks for the suggestion re the forum. That's a good idea. I'll see if the other person responds.
I know that one can draw lines, but drawing them on the molded shape of a real person is probably trickier than applying a style tape to a dress form, just as draping on an actual human is different and usually harder than draping on a mannequin.
I'm open to trying it, and no part of me is eager to spend hundreds of dollars on a used or new dress form (I've always been told that Wolf makes the best ones.).
But I have worked with professional dress forms a bit, and understand how having a sturdy, pinable form with a collapsible shoulder, heavy metal base and a pedal that allows the form to be raised for tasks like hemming would be more helpful.
Posted: 7:23 pm on October 18th
Try to make your own---nothing ventured, nothing gained. Just be careful!
T
Posted: 7:15 pm on October 18th
I don't know if there's any way -from here- to exchange emails, but ... if you both join the "Gatherings" forum, (see the button at the top), use the same (or very similar) screen names when you register, and enable Private Messages from Members, you can do it there.
There have also been some extensive discussions about dress forms, over the years!
"Fitting lines" can be drawn on with a marker, before you cut the form off your body.
Have fun - let us know how it goes!
Posted: 7:13 pm on October 18th
Posted: 7:11 pm on October 18th
I once bought a CD that illustrated a similar method using mailing tape. Only after watching the entire demonstration did I realize that I also had to make a muslin cover, but the website selling the CD didn't offer a pattern in my size. *urgh!*
Posted: 6:59 pm on October 18th
I'm a New Yorker and I'd be willing to work together. I've always wanted to try this, but I have to be honest, whenever I've asked for the opinion of people who sew or design professionally, they've either not heard of the method, or they think it's silly, compared to padding a form. I've also heard that the forms don't always fit the body, or collapse in short order. In addition, it may be difficult to establish the lines one needs for draping on such a form.
But I'll try anything once.
If you can think of a discreet way for us to exchange email addresses, I'd be happy to contact you.
I'll try to check this space once a day for the next couple weeks.
Point Patou
Posted: 6:53 pm on October 18th
Posted: 6:37 pm on October 18th
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x--8bbDFR3U
Posted: 6:15 pm on October 18th
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